Phi Ta Khon Festival (June 26-28)
Dan Sai District, Loei District and Province

The Phi Ta Khon festival (phi means ghost) is unique to the Dan Sai district in Loei Province and reflects the local Isan belief in ghosts and spirits. Held once a year, it is part of a grand merit-making festival known as the "Boon Luang" festival.

The origins of the Phi Ta Khon Festival can be found in the tale of Lord Buddha's last great incarnation before attaining Enlightenment. In Buddhist accounts, it is said that when Prince Vessandara, the Buddha's penultimate incarnation, returned to his city, it was such a joyous occasion that the village spirits came forth to join the welcoming parade. This very colourful and vibrant Phi Ta Khon procession is the central focus of the celebrations.

In a lively re-enactment of the tale, the young men of the community dress up as "spirits" wearing long trailing costumes made from colourful strips of cloth sewn together.

The hideous-looking Phi Ta Khon mask which is made of dried sticky rice husk is painted in bright red, green or other colours, and features the characteristic long pointed nose.

This completes the transformation. The clanging sound of the square cowbells worn around the waist announces the presence of the spirits who wield phallic-shaped long-handled swords decorated with red paint. The good-natured, fun-loving spirits mingle among the crowd, teasing and amusing all who take part in the procession. Spectators and visitors are welcome to join in the fun.

There are two types of "spirits" featured in the Phi Ta Khon procession namely the "Phi Ta Khon Yai" — the supreme Phi Ta Khon, and the "Phi Ta Khon Lek", the ones that are commonly found.

Villagers dressed up as ghosts with long colourful marks who participlate in entertaining processions honouring spirits of long ago. Phi Ta Khon processions are part of the merit-making activities during June-July in Loei province, especially Den Sai district, on the border with Laos.

The festival begins early the first morning when the ghosts appear to tease villagers on their way to Den Sai. The ghostly procession, with dancers and entertainers, frolics its way towards the main temple, all the while teasing onlookers.

The second day, the Phi Ta Khon reappear to parade a sacred Buddha image around town, while monks recite the story of the Buddha's reincarnation. The Phi Ta Khon tease and play with their audience, cavorting around in grotesque, long-nosed marks made from coconut husks. Many are decorated with small bells, which jingle as the "ghosts" jump and dance around. Other Phi Ta Khon are armed with knives whose handles are carved into huge red phallic symbols. As can be imagined, the knives are prodded at women in the audience to provoke screams and laughter.

Thadition requires that the ghostly costumes must be hidden while they are being made, and always in a rice storage area. After the festival is over, the marks are usually thrown into the Man river, because the wearers are afraid of real ghosts. These days, however, the marks are sold to the hordes of tourists, who want them as souvenirs and wall decorations.

The making of the Phi Ta Khon Yai involves the performance of a sacred ritual to seek the blessings of the supreme powers before work on the Phi Ta Khon Yai masks can be initiated.

The ghosts, or Phi Ta Khon, wear fanciful clothes with beautiful and comic designs, or covered with blankets painted or drawn with different symbols. Although most of them are dressed to scare people, the occasion is truly fun-filled with performances, dancing and prancing. Cans and other apparel make up the decorative items, with cans tied to the leg or waist, creating noise that add to the fun of both performers and spectators.

It is also a task reserved exclusively for the descendants of families in which the tradition of making Phi Ta Khon masks has been practised for several generations. The Phi Ta Khon Yai is made of bamboo and is dressed in either male or female attire.

 

Phi Ta Khon Clip VDO